Learn how you can make the oldest type of candles known to man
There's something magical about a taper candle that slowly takes
shape before your eyes, as you dip the thickening wick into the hot wax.
Even if the process in itself is utterly simple, it is very important to
constantly monitor and, if needed, adjust the temperature of the wax in
which you dip the wick(s).
With some experience and a little trial and error, you'll be able to easily
create the oldest candles known by man, all by yourself.
As your confidence grows, your taper candles will take new shapes and
aspects: twisted, over-dipped, special effects... taper candles offer a very
wide playground!
Specifications:
- Difficulty: relatively easy
- Time needed: about one hour
Supplies needed:
- 1 tall dipping pot
- enough taper blend to fill the dipping pot
- 1 length of wick equal to 2 times the desired candle length plus 20
centimeters
- 1 wick holder (optional)
- 1 thermometer
- 2 weights (small bolts or large fishing line weights)
- 1 large spoon to regularly stir the wax
- and of course the usual supplies: double boiler...
Methods:
-
As usual, gather all the
supplies, tools and ingredients you will need for this project.
Keep in mind that melting such a large amount of paraffin will take quite a
long time. Also, the fact that the dipping pot, because of its height, is
only partially in contact with the water in the double boiler will slow
things down even more...
So better start the melting process well in advance (like two hours) and,
above all, don't forget to regularly check the water level in the double
boiler!
Before you start, place something at the bottom of the main double boiler
pan to avoid direct contact between it and the bottom of the dipping pot.
For this purpose, I use two small metal angle brackets bought at a DIY store:
they're cheap, efficient and easy to move.
The dipping pot must not be in direct contact with the
bottom of your double boiler
-
When you need to dip things into wax, temperature is even more important
than in other projects: it means the difference between success and failure.
So be sure to always leave a thermometer in the melted wax.
Because only a portion of the paraffin in the dipping pot will be in contact
with the hot water in the double boiler, you will need to stir the paraffin
in the dipping pot thoroughly at regular interval. Use a long metallic spoon
to mix the warmer paraffin at the bottom with the cooler one at the top.
Ideally, the totality of the wax should remain at a temperature between
160°F and 170°F during the whole dipping process. You will soon realize that
this requires some experience and a good knowledge of both your heating
equipment and the dipping pot you will be using.
Of course, "ideal" is not of this world so don't worry too much if the
temperature of the wax varies slightly. But don't let it drop under 160°F or
raise above 170°F.
A thermometer must remain in the wax at all times
-
As explained in the previous article, titled "What do you need to make
Taper candles?", it's a good idea to build a small wick holder. This will
allow you to manipulate the wicks with less risks of both paraffin coated
halves to touch each other (this would more than probably result in a
"welding" of the two halves, a nasty curse word and the necessity to start
all over again).
If you can't find anything to make such a wick holder from scratch, you can
of course hold the wicks with your bare hands but then you should watch your
moves. You could also use a small piece of strong cardboard with a slit at
each hand to hold the wick.
A homemade wick holder will soon prove handy
-
For the first dips, it is necessary to help the wicks sink into the wax.
Because of their light weight and the material they're made of, they will
float if you don't add some weight at their extremities. You can use a small
bolt tied at the end of each wick half or, better and easier to remove
afterwards, two large fishing line weights. Those have a slit (think PacMan)
that will let you pinch them on the wick.
When the wicks have been dipped 7 or 8 times, the accumulated paraffin will
have made them heavy and rigid enough. At this stage, you'd better remove
the weights or they will become an integral part of the candles. Your
growing tapers should now plunge into the paraffin on their own weight.
During the first dips, it is necessary to add some
weight at the end of the wicks
-
I know I've said it ten times already but it's really of utmost
importance: be sure your dipping wax is still at the ideal temperature,
between 160°F et 170°F. If it's colder, the surface of the candle will be
rough and lumpy; if it's hotter, the wax won't stick to the wicks and your
candles won't get any thicker.
The temperature of the wax should remain the same
during the whole dipping process
-
The dipping motion must be smooth and without hesitation otherwise the
surface of your taper candles will show a "stairway" pattern where your
dipping motion stopped.
For the first dip, plunge the wicks into the wax and leave them in there for
about thirty seconds. This is equivalent to what you do when you prime the
wick of a molded candle: it allows any air contained in the fibers of the
wick to escape and the wick to saturate itself with paraffin.
When you can't see any more air bubbles escaping the wicks, lift them out of
the dipping pot in the same smooth and even motion.
Your dipping motion must be smooth and even
-
Wax will drip away from the wicks ends during a few seconds so you'd better
prepare and cover your work surface with the sheets of an old newspaper.
Let the coated wicks cool off for about one minute. The wax on the wicks
should feel cool to the touch otherwise this not-cool-yet wax will melt
during the next dip and your tapers will have a hard time getting thicker.
after the 4th dip...
-
The next dips are identical: dip the wicks in a smooth motion down
to the same level as the previous times, wait 3 seconds and get them out of
the wax again, in the same smooth and even motion. Let cool for one minute
before the next dip.
If your candles refuse to get thicker, let the wax temperature drop by 5°F
before you continue.
Somewhere after the seventh or eighth dip, or when the candles have reached a
thickness of, like, 7mm, wait 2 minutes instead of one between each dip: a
larger quantity of wax needs more time to cool off. If you haven't remove
the weights at the end of the wicks yet, it's now or never. If necessary,
use scissors to cut the end of the candle where the weight is enclosed.
after the 10th dip...
-
During the whole dipping process, do not hesitate to add more paraffin in
the dipping pot to compensate for what is used to build up the tapers. Stir
the wax at (very) regular intervals and, above all, check the temperature.
Repeat until the taper candles are as thick as you want them to be.
after the 16th dip...
-
When you're happy with the size of the taper candles, put them on a plane
and clean support, like a countertop, and roll them under your hands to
flatten them and, if necessary, straighten them.
If you want to give them a shiny finish, raise the temperature of the wax in
the dipping pot to 180°F-190°F and dip the candles two more times in the hot
wax. To make your taper candles virtually dripless, dip them one last time in a
high melt point wax, for instance a Hurricane blend.
One last tip if you want your taper candles to have a really shiny finish:
dip them in cold water just after the last dip in wax.
Roll the still soft tapers onto a plane surface to
flatten and straighten them
You have just repeated the same gestures as many of your ancestors before
you...And you've just created, hopefully without too much frustrations, your first
handmade taper candles. Congratulations!
Author: Chris, Owner of HowtomakeCandles.info
. Check out his website with loads of informational resources for candle
makers, and show your support!
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