How To Make Your Own Latex Candle Mold's Tutorial

The major asset of latex molds is their ability to produce
candles in a huge variety of shapes and a great precision in the details.
This is something a metal or polycarbonate mold just can't offer.
And what makes them really attractive is that they're easy to make yourself
with very limited supplies, available in almost any Do-It-Yourself
superstore!

A latex mold allows for an endless variety of shapes and complex details

Specifications:

• Difficulty: easy
• Time needed: A minimum of 10 layers with one hour (drying time) between
  each layer.

What do you need?

• 1 bottle of liquid latex
• 1 paintbrush
• 1 item to cast
• a little dish washing liquid

How to make a latex mold?

Not all models are suitable to create a latex mold

• Your first task is to find an item to cast and, very
  important, that is suitable to create a latex mold: unfortunately, not every
  item will do the job.

  To give you an idea, the selected object must have a shape that is more or
  less "block-like". But if you don't intend to actually light up the candles
  you will cast in the mold you're about to make, then you're totally free in
  your choice.

  Another point is that the object may not have any open part (for example, a
  character with the hands on his hips, because of the open space between the
  arms and the torso). Obviously, in such a case, it would prove impossible to
  separate the finished mold from the model. However, if there's only a very
  small open space, you can always fill it with some play dough or mold sealer
  Try and avoid items that have been painted, unless they've also been
  varnished. I once tried to cast a latex mold from a small polyresin
  gargoyle; when it was time to remove the mold from the gargoyles, a large
  part of the stone-colored paint of the gargoyle stayed stuck against the
  latex: gargoyle beyond repair, mold ruined...
  For this project, I chose a Marsupilami-shaped salt shaker, ideal because
  the "body" of the salt shaker has the exact same shape of a small pillar
  candle. The resulting candle would burn quite well!



Liquid latex must always be used in a well ventilated
room

• To cast the mold, a good option is liquid latex. You can
  find this kind of latex almost everywhere: in craft stores and in most
  Do-It-Yourself superstores.

  Make sure that you work in a well ventilated room: liquid
  latex contains in average 40 to 50% ammonia (to help keep the latex in a
  liquid state in the bottle). And ammonia is not the most pleasant product to
  work with and is far from healthy to breathe. Always try, even in a well
  ventilated room, to keep mouth and nose below the level of your paintbrush
  and do not inhale the emanations (be assured, after 5 minutes with your nose
  above the bottle of latex, you will see Marsupilami's everywhere around
  you!)

  Shake the bottle thoroughly before you start, otherwise
  the latex on top of the bottle (where you dip your paintbrush) will be way
  too liquid to be correctly and efficiently applied. Don't forget to close
  the bottle when you're done with a layer.

  Every brand of latex is different, follow the instructions
  of the manufacturer: how to work with the latex, minimum number of layers
  and cleaning of the paintbrush can vary from brand to brand.



Apply the first layer uniformly, making sure you
create a 'lip' for the future mold

• Place the object you want to cast on a sheet of waxed
  paper.

  Apply the first layer uniformly on the entire model. You will notice that
  the latex holds better on some parts of the model than on others. In this
  example, I have had to insist a lot on the ears and nose of the Marsupilami
  because gravity made the latex flow downwards. Do not hesitate to add more
  latex on these delicate places and don't forget to regularly shake the
  bottle to make the latex thicker. But don't exaggerate: if you shake too
  hard, you will create air bubbles in the liquid latex. These bubbles may not
  end up on the mold!

  It is important to create some kind of "lip" of at least 5
  mm at the base of the model, or in other words on the waxed paper. This lip
  is necessary for 2 reasons: strengthen the opening of the mold, and allow
  the mold to be hanged on a cardboard plate (see the article about latex and
  rubber molds). The lip will also help unmold the finished candles. On
  picture 4, the bright white lip is clearly visible at the base of the model.



Let the previous layer dry completely before you apply
the next one

• Depending on the brand of liquid latex you use, the
  drying time between each layer will be more or less long. Always wait at
  least one hour (two hours is better, some sources say four) for the last
  layer to dry before you start applying the next one.

  "Fresh" latex is milky white and turns yellow as it dries. Always wait until
  every white spot disappears before you go on to the next layer. Some places
  where more latex concentrate, like the lip, need more time to dry than
  others.

  Your mold will need between 10 and 15 layers (here again, some sources
  mention 20 layers) to be thick and strong enough to bear the heat of the
  paraffin you'll pour into it. Picture 4 shows the mold after the sixth layer
  of latex has been applied.



Remove the mold from the model by rolling it onto itself like a glove

• When the last layer has been applied and the latex is
  perfectly dry, remove the waxed paper (be careful not to shred the paper or
  you'll have a hard time removing every little bit of paper from the mold
  base).

  Put a little dish washing liquid on your fingers and rub the whole surface
  of the mold: this will prevent it from sticking to itself when you will
  unmold the model.

  As illustrated on picture 5, gently pull the lip upwards and remove the mold
  from the model like you would remove a glove (therefore, latex molds are
  commonly called "glove molds"): it will end up inside out.



The finished latex mold

• Your latex mold is finished and ready to use.

  Do not think it will last forever: you should be able to cast an average of
  fifteen candles with one same mold before it starts to break up... then
  you'll have the pleasure to make a brand new one :)

  NEVER add stearine to the paraffin for use in a latex mold. Don't forget
  that stearine is an acid and that it would eat up the latex without mercy.

  To further extend the life of your latex molds, store it in a dark place
  and, before you unmold a candle, always coat the mold with a some dish
  washing liquid.

Author: Chris, Owner of HowtomakeCandles.info
. Check out his website with loads of informational resources for candle
makers, and show your support!